Edible Tropicals

Edible Tropicals Domain Change

2011-11-03T21:52:00.002-07:00

The domain name of the website has changed, and you will now be able to find it at Edibletropicalplants.com, and as always at edibletropicals.blogspot.com.

How to: Grow Mangoes from seed

2011-06-29T11:18:00.005-07:00

Mangoes come from a variety of species of trees in the Mangifera genus, the most common of these for commercial sale is the Mangifera indica. As far as germination and growth patterns, the mango is very much like an avocado. There is a pit in the middle of the fruit yielding only one seed, which should sprout just about a month after sowing. Mangoes come from trees, and often very large trees (over 100 ft tall in some cases) however growth is slow, so don't expect to be getting any fruit in the first five years.

There are so many ways to grow this beautiful tree from seed, and most that I have tried seem to work well. One thing is for certain, you should plant the pit/seed as soon as possible after eating the fruit, this will ensure the best chance for germination. Also during the spring or summer is a good time to start planting mango seeds.

Mango trees, and especially seedlings, are susceptible to frost damage and will be difficult to cultivate in any climate that receives annual freezing temperatures. You can circumvent this by growing indoors, or in a greenhouse, but in both situations the chances for fruit aren't too likely. You will likely need to have a greenhouse with a 12'+ height for any hope of actually yielding fruit.

The last paragraph may have been disheartening for mango lovers living in temperate climates. One may still grow mango seedlings in indoor or protected locations within such climates. Additionally, as mango trees age their ability to deal with slight frosts may improve slightly. These odd looking seedlings will surely attract some attention sitting on a window-sill, and they make great conversation pieces as few people realize that mango seeds can be so easily grown into trees from commercial fruits.

How to germinate a mango seed:

Firstly you must go buy a mango, at most grocery stores that I frequent they sell for between $.50 - $1.50+ depending on the season. To eat the fruit, remove the skin and either cut the flesh with a knife or simply eat around the inner pit as if you were eating an apple. You will notice a lot of fibrous strands coming from the pit, there is no need to remove these or any excess fruit remaining on the pit. You may either carefully crack open the very hard casing around the seed or you may leave the whole pit to dry out and simply plant the whole thing. Although the seed casing is very tough the seed within can grow a powerful tap root that will penetrate the casing and firmly establish itself in the soil before sending up the stem. Removing the seed from the casing will likely result in faster germination, but you will probably be waiting around a month either way. If you decide to break into the casing to remove the seed, you will need to carefully use a knife or a screwdriver to pry it open. This process reminds me of prying open clams, but be careful it can be pretty frustrating (and dangerous) trying to extract a mango seed.

This is a pit from a freshly eaten mango.

This is the same pit that has been dried out and pried open to recover the seed within.

Once you have the mango seed all that you have to do is plant it and wait. You will want to pick a well draining soil to plant the seed in, also avoid using shallow pots because they will inhibit the tap root's growth. I have found that mango seeds aren't too picky about how deep you sow them, but I would recommend around 1-2 inches (or 2-4 cm) deep.

Whether your mango will survive and grow into a tall and prosperous mango tree has a lot to do on how well the seedling grows during the first year. Sometimes seedlings will get too dry, too wet, or have some kind of environmental problem which will dramatically hamper their growth. Perhaps poor genetics also play a role in seedling survivability. You will notice that healthy mango seedlings will grow fast, put out a lot of new leaves but also preserve old leaves. Seedlings that are in poor health will lose lower leaves faster, grow slower, and show 'burning' signs on leaves especially near the tips. From my experience, some mango seedlings just do better than others.

Additional notes:

Mango trees enjoy warm summer temperatures with high humidity and dry winters. At the seedling stage there is no need for the use of fertilizer and pests shouldn't be much of a problem either. Overall, mangoes are fool proof plants for a greenhouse as they are easy to grow, widely available, and relatively pest free.

This is a 1.5 year old mango seedling that is in good health. It continuously puts out new sets of leaves on the top apex. Notice that there is still no branching.

Pineapple Sage

2011-05-13T14:10:00.000-07:00

Salvia elegans is commonly known as the Pineapple Sage, a very fitting name. You won't find pineapples on this perennial shrub however, instead you will smell them! That's correct, Pineapple Sage has a strong pineapple fragrance that can be savored by being near the plant; rubbing the leaves will release more of the aromatic compounds thus intensifying the smell. Not only is this plant fragrant, it's also edible and extremely fast growing.

Personally, I think that this is a sort of miracle plant for greenhouses. I found it to be surprisingly low maintenance, cheap, fast growing, and adaptive. Its technically not a "tropical" plant and thus it doesn't require high humidity or constantly moist soil. In fact you should let the soil dry out a little in between watering. I bought my Pineapple Sage at a local nursery for 2$, and just about a month later it was already well over a foot tall and still growing! Additionally, these plants can be grown outside during normal spring/summer growing seasons and since they are perennials, they will grow back from mild frosts.

The Pineapple Sage plant thrives in full sun and well draining soil. Be sure to plant it only where there is adequate room as they can grow into large bushes (sometimes over 5 feet tall). Occasional trimming may also be required if you find yourself with a wild, unruly plant.

The Pineapple Sage has beautiful red tubular flowers that are a favorite among hummingbirds.

Light Meters / Photometers

2011-04-25T16:21:00.015-07:00

One of the most important sources of energy for plants is sunlight, but did you know that not all plants like the same amount of light? Tropical plants can be some of the pickiest when it comes to light requirements. In a rainforest most of the light coming from the sun is absorbed by tall trees, yet a small amount of light can get through which is absorbed by smaller plants near the ground. These plants below the canopies enjoy their shady environment, and in fact, thrive in it. Basically not all plants require the same amount of light. How do you know how much light a plant needs then? Often times nurseries will sell plants with labels that have their light requirements, if they don't, the internet is always a good source for this information.

Most of the time you can just tell how much light a plant needs based on what kind of plant it is. Generally trees and tall plants require full sun while low to the ground plants generally like full or partial shade. Many plants can survive in shade or sun, but others are extremely sensitive and can be killed by too little or too much light. Fast growing annuals such as beans are a great example of a plant that will die without adequate light levels. This is because bean sprouts grow too tall and end up snapping their stem or falling over (in an attempt to get more light). On the other end of the spectrum, orchids can easily be harmed by too much light. In fact, light meters are very useful tools for orchid growers because different species of orchids require different levels of light.

What does a photometer do?
A photometer is another name for a light intensity meter, an instrument that measures the amount of light that it is receiving. This is very important because the human eye has a very hard time at distinguishing light levels. For instance, the difference in light levels in a well lit room compared to outside are huge. Inside my house, my light meter can hardly even register a few foot candles (a unit measuring light intensity), yet in the sunlight there is between 5,000-10,000 foot candles! So if you don't have a green brain, one of these light meters will help you decide where to put plants to optimize their potential.

Below you can see the left picture was a reading taken from inside my house, while the picture on the right has the meter facing the sun.

How to: Grow Papaya from Seed

2011-03-25T15:32:00.017-07:00

The Papaya is an iconic tropical fruit coming from the Carica papaya plant. Typically papaya trees can get quite large, sometimes over thirty feet tall. As far as tropical fruit trees go, I believe that the papaya is the easiest and most rewarding for beginners to grow. This is because they germinate fast and grow extremely tall in just a few years. They aren't true trees, however they are actually considered herbs. Papayas are particularly fast growing compared to most perennial fruit trees and can be harvested in as little as three years.

Papayas have a lot of seeds in them, so one papaya is enough to get a decent sized plantation going. Of course most growers don't want (or have the space) for that many papayas, luckily the seeds stay viable for at least a few years so you don't have to grow them all at once. When collecting seeds from a papaya fruit you will notice jelly-like capsules surrounding each seed. To greatly improve germination rates, storage time, and disease resistance, you should remove each seed from the surrounding gel (aril). For those living in the United States, two varieties of papaya are most commonly found in grocery stores, the Hawaiian and the Mexican papayas. The Hawaiian variety is a smaller than average fruit, while the Mexican papaya a true giant but doesn't taste as good. You can find a wide range of papaya cultivators on the internet, even dwarf varieties that fruit at low heights, perfect for greenhouses.

Admittedly, Papayas are rather difficult to grow in non-tropical climates, but it is possible. Even light freezes can completely kill a papaya tree so my guess is that most people below zone 7 or 8 probably don't have a chance at growing a papaya outside. I have heard of some people in town (zone 8) growing full sized Papayas in their backyards, but I have yet to see that for myself. Papayas also prefer to be grown in humid climates, but I have found that they will grow outside in Tucson with as little as 20% humidity.

As with most fruit seeds, germination takes a while (up to a month or more). There are several ways to go about germinating the Papaya seeds, I recommend directly sowing them into soil. If you are worried about germination rates try putting your seeds in a warm cup of water for a day. Seeds that float to the surface will not sprout so scoop them up and throw them away. Picking a well-draining soil is crucial for growing papayas, go for a potting mix or make your own. Soils that don't drain well can cause root rot that will easily kill even a fully grown papaya.

Don't worry about fertilizing your papaya seedlings, they won't need it until they are at least 6 months - 1 year old. Fertilizing should be done often but not too often, also go for a high nitrogen fertilizer. Being such a fast growing plant, it requires a constant supply of nutrients, therefore I like to feed them about every month. If properly cared for your papaya should be towering over you in just a couple of years. Unfortunately, after harvesting your papaya it will die back. Much like a banana tree, the papaya tree can be regrown after harvest. This is done by cutting the trunk down significantly, as low as a few feet. After this is done offshoots will begin to grow off the sides of the trunk. Only the most vigorous offshoot should be left to grow, cut off the rest.

I know that Papayas have a hard time with a wide range of insects and pests, but I have yet to encounter any pests on my papayas. Perhaps this is because my papayas are grown in a greenhouse while most of the ruthless papaya pests live in the tropics.

This is one of my papayas that suffered the freezing temperatures of the winter. While most of the plant had died, the plant still had enough energy to send off a new shoot.

This is a package of Thai papaya seeds that is sold in Thailand. There papayas are treated as common fruits, where as in the United States and Europe they are considered exotic.

Tucson Orchid Show 2011

2011-03-11T12:50:00.000-07:00

The annual orchid show was once again put on by the Tucson Orchid Society and hosted at a local Tucson nursery. Members of TOS were hard at work last week hauling in their orchids and setting up for the event. As with last year, there was a display with information on different soil mediums and how to care for orchids. The variety of orchids at the show was quite impressive, everything from Japanese dwarf dendrobiums to strongly scented exotics.

Here you can see some of the judged orchids on display. This table had a lot of really fragrant orchids, but also a lot of miniatures such as Tolumnias. Here are some more pictures of the event:

What's new 2011

2011-03-11T09:15:00.004-07:00

I haven't made a blog post in quite a while because I have had some greenhouse Issues. I lost most of my plants due to some unusually low temperatures this winter in addition to some greenhouse damages caused by some extreme weather. Recovery is slow and it's hard to find the time to work on my project at the moment, but new posts will be coming soon. Stay tuned for some DIY greenhouse projects and some new plant articles. Happy gardening!

Greenhouse Ground Bed Construction

2010-12-15T14:57:00.005-07:00

There are many layout options when constructing a greenhouse. Many people prefer to have their plants individually potted and then placed either on the ground or on benches. Others opt for raised beds to plant in, while some decide to grow straight in the ground. Ground beds are useful for many purposes, but their main advantage is the ability to maximize greenhouse space. This is because ground beds offer more height for taller plants such as trees , whereas a raised bed will reduce possible growing height by the height of the bed. One of the major disadvantages of ground beds, however, is that they allow the roots of plants to grow through the garden soil into the native soil. This can be a large problem, especially if the native soil contains soil pathogens that are deadly to your plants. In addition, native soil is often more compacted and offers less nutrients.

Calculations:
I advise doing some planning instead of making inaccurate judgments. Decide on how big of a grow area you want, and estimate how much soil and how many edge-stones you will need. Keep in mind that the plants you will be growing may not like the dirt that your greenhouse is built on. Therefore, if growing trees be sure to clear out about 3-4+ feet deep of dirt to allow room for the deep growing roots. Annuals and most low-growing perennials should be fine with as little as 1-2 feet deep of soil.

Picking a soil:

There are many options when it comes to the soil that you will be cultivating in. It is important to pick one that is well draining and meant for garden use. These soils are usually have a higher sand content and less clay. Soils labeled "Garden Soil" would be ideal, but potting soil will work as well. Also, depending on what you plan on growing may affect your soil choice. For instance, when growing cactus, be sure to buy a cactus mix. So long as you are growing trees, shrubs, annuals, and most perennials, the typical garden soil should work just fine.

Digging and filling:
Again, keep in mind of what kinds of plants you will be growing in the ground bed and dig to an appropriate depth. Upon digging your bed, be sure to add a couple inches of gravel or rocks. This will provide drainage to the soil above. Some gardeners like to add a meshed material to place on top of the gravel layer. This helps preserve the drainage of your gravel by preventing soil from leeching. It is not required, but it will help in the long-run. Once your drainage layer is done, start filling the ditch with soil.

Finishing touches:
Place edge-stones around the perimeter of the ground bed to prevent soil dispersion and to define the grow space. You may also choose to fill soil all the way to the top of the edge-stones making a sort of raised bed.

Trouble-shooting ground beds:
If the soil has become compacted overtime it may inhibit the absorption of water and suffocate roots. To fix this problem you may add soil amendments which will recondition the soil and improve it's quality. Alternatively you may till the soil using a shovel. This method involves the physical break up of the compacted soil returning it to a normal state.

How to Grow: Taro

2010-09-12T11:43:00.009-07:00

Taro is a common name for a wide range of plants under the family Araceae. There are many species of plants that are hosts to the name, and there are plenty of species under Araceae that are edible. The most commonly used species for consumption is the Colocasia esculenta. It is a staple crop in many regions worldwide, especially Asia.

Toxicity:
Taro root is indeed considered "Toxic" when uncooked. This is due to crystal compounds that occur naturally in the leaves and stems of Taro. These crystals are shaped like small needles and are highly irritating. Consumption of raw Taro is a mistake that one will make only once. I have made the mistake myself, upon eating about half of a Taro leaf I experienced an itch in my mouth that lead to an extremely painful swelling in my esophagus. Cooking of the Taro will reduce the crystal chemicals to a safe level and improve the taste and texture of the plant. Taro is popular in many dishes worldwide; It is commonly prepared in stews and stir-fries. Due to the crystal compounds, it is considered a "last-resort" food in many regions and is only consumed if there is a food shortage.

Ornamental Uses:
Strictly ornamental varieties of Elephant Ear exist under the Caladium genus with brightly colored, usually pink, leaves. Many species from the Colocasia and Xanthosoma genera are also popular ornamental plants. Variations occur on many of these ornamental species, such as especially elongated leaves. Many include variegations exhibiting beautiful stripes and splashes of color.

Areas for cultivation:
Most Taro/Elephant Ear plants are considered tropical, thus they are sensitive to frost. The majority of these plants need to be grown in zones 10-11 with warm temperatures and a moist climate. There are some ornamental Elephant Ears that are exceptions and can easily grow in lower zones. Wherever Taro is being cultivated, the soil must be light and moisture retentive. At the same time the soil should be well draining as to not waterlog the tubers. If you live in an area with unsuitable conditions for Taro, you can always grow it indoors or in a greenhouse.

How to Grow Taro/Elephant Ear:
These plants are easily cultivated by tubers, thick potato-like roots. First you must obtain some of these tubers which can sometimes be found in grocery stores. Depending on the species of Taro these tubers will look very different. Some will be smooth and round, others will be rough with root-like fibers. Growing this plant is as simple as placing the tuber in fertile soil and adding water. You can even cut the tuber into sections to multiply your crop. Within the first week of planting the tubers you should notice a small green stem poking through the soil, this will be the first leaf. Over time the plant will develop into a thick bush and grow to a height of a foot to more than 6 feet (depending on the species). As the plant develops it will send off more shoots, leaves, and tubers allowing you to gradually harvest without harming the plant. Industrial fertilizers should not be necessary for growing Taro, instead apply rich manures or compost to the top soil. If all goes well Taro can be harvested in less than a year.

This is one of my Elephant Ears of an unknown species/genus. It is different from the rest of my Taro plants in that it's leaves are shiny and feel like plastic.

Here you can see the base of the same Taro plant. Each stems comes from a single larger stem that keeps sending off shoots. A baby shoot can be seen in the left of the picture. These usually come up straight from the tuber below the soil.

Here is another one of my Taro plants of a different species. You can clearly see the difference in growth habits. This plant is also growing from a single base stem but is much taller.

This is the base of the last Taro plant. You can see more shoots growing from the base of the main stem. This is common in Taro plants and contributes to the thick growth habits.

A more developed Taro plant exhibits what looks like many different plants in the same container. This is because as the plant grows, it sends off new tubers (just like a potato), each of the tubers then has the potential to send off more shoots.

This is a Taro tuber that I purchased at a local special foods grocery store. It was labeled as "giant taro root" without a species or genus. This is often the case when buying Taro, which leaves an element of surprise when the plant develops.

Aqua Caliente Regional Park (Arizona)

2010-08-06T19:05:00.001-07:00

The Aqua Caliente park is a hidden treasure found near the city limits of Tucson, Arizona. It's a hard place to find, especially as there are few, if any road signs indicating where the park is located. It opens at 7AM and closes by sunset - there is no entrance fee. It's a quiet place with few visitors and a lot of wildlife, making it a truly unique location. The most interesting aspect of the park is it's hot water spring from which water flows to fill numerous lakes and ponds. It's a tropical oasis in an environment deprived of water. The park is 101 acres of plants and animals, while on my visit I saw deer, turtles, rabbits, hawks, yellow finches, ducks, and countless species of fish. The park also sports a diverse collection of plants, many types of cacti and palms as well as some non-native species.

First impressions: The natural spring allows for dense vegetation and thick grass. This is a great place to sit back and read a book, or to have a family picnic.

This is the actual spring, it is very small but supplies enough water to fill many large bodies of water.

The runoff from the spring is walled in by a thick wall of palm trees on both sides. This stream continues for about 100 feet until it empties into the main lake. Even in this stream I was fortunate enough to spot exotically colored fish.

This is where the spring empties into the lake, but the full view is limited by the tall reeds.

A desert island in the middle of the main lake. Ducks and turtles can be seen sitting in the shade to take a break from the 100F+ temperatures.

There are many species of plants that can be seen in this photograph. This is because the shade and abundance of water allows for a wider range of plants to succeed.

I was very surprised to find a fig tree growing, although it isn't native, it is doing quite well and even has some figs on it.

One of the main attractions is this mesquite tree. It is estimated to be over 200 years old and is a spectacle to even native Arizonians whom are thoroughly accustomed to the mesquite tree. It will produce yellow bean pods which are sugary and edible.

There are a lot of citrus trees too, each with hundreds of unripe fruits. This one is a lime tree.

Nearing the outskirts of the park I spotted this abandoned dam. The tall plants you can see in the right half of the picture are native sunflowers.

Deer are also an occasional sight in the park, like this one munching away at a mesquite tree.

The second lake has a lot less water in it but still gave some great views.

This cacti is a late bloomer. While most barrel cactus has fruit by this time, this one had just started to flower.

Some views near the spring are very reminiscent of a college campus, minus all of the people.

A view from the outside-in is a sobering reminder that this is a desert, not a tropical getaway.

Costa Rica

2010-07-16T18:08:00.000-07:00

My mother recently went on a trip to Costa Rica and brought back a wealth of pictures. The following are pictures that I thought were beautiful and interesting.

This is a picture of a Cacao tree (Theobroma cacao). The pods have a range of colors, these purple pods aren't quite ripe yet. The Cacao pods are the source of chocolate.

Bananas are grown all over central and south America, but few are grown for their ornamental value, like this pink banana flower.

This is a picture from the Else Kientzler Botanical Gardens in Sarchi Norte, Costa Rica.

This is a vanilla orchid vining around two host trees. Typically vanilla farmers cultivate it on host trees that give shade and height allowing the vanilla to climb and flourish.

Ornamental plant farms are common in Costa Rica. They grow plants for genetic research for the creation of new ornamentals, and they grow ornamentals for export. This farm uses a type of terracing to allow for maximum land usage and reduced erosion.

Scenic waterfalls like this are abundant in the dense mountain forests.

Due to high humidity and warm conditions epiphites like these grow on nearly every tree.

How to: Propagate Dragonfruit by cuttings

2010-07-07T09:13:00.030-07:00

The dragonfruit (aka Pitaya) comes from a variety of species, the most common being the Hylocereus undatus (red pitaya). These cacti are considered to be epiphytic meaning that they can survive on the nutrients and moisture in the air yet they usually still have roots anchoring them to soil. Of all the tropical plants that I am currently growing, the Pitaya is by far the most tolerant to excessive temperatures and brief periods of drought making this a great candidate for desert greenhouse growers like myself. Due to the dragonfruit's long and often unpredictable germination periods propagation by cutting is a no brainer.

Before you start: It is best to do this in warm/moist summer months as this speeds the propagation. Also, don't cut off too much from the parent plant as this will put stress on the plant that may jeopardize it's health.

1: Start with a long segment of cactus that can easily be cut into 3-5 sections. Be sure that it is at least a foot long. Try to look for segments that are relatively new but not still growing. I just use scissors to cut the segments into sections that are 3-6 inches long.
2: (optional) Apply a fungicide to the cut ends of each section and place them somewhere relatively dry. This helps deter infections and mold. Note that this step doesn't have to be done but helps with the odds of survival.

3: The next step is to "cure" the cuttings. This allows the cut parts of the cactus to dry out and seal the wound. This is most important in preventing disease and mold from killing the cuttings. I know from experience that cuttings can survive without being cured but it is still a good idea. Cure time should be anywhere from 1-5 days (just wait until the cut ends heal over and turn a little white).

4: Place each cut section in a light soil mix. I suggest mixing some vermiculite and perlite with an average potting soil. Be weary of orientation, each section should be placed in the same direction it was on the plant (don't place them upside down). Each section needs to be planted about 1-2 inches into the soil.
5: Water daily unless the soil is still moist, allow for it to dry out a little. The first thing you might see are roots growing out of the section, this is a good sign of success. These aerial roots will gather nutrients and water from the air, as well as anchor the plant to the soil.
If the propagation was successful a new shoot will emerge. This usually takes between a week to a few months depending on the time of year. Use fertilizer sparingly until they are a year old. Also remember to shield these plants from freezing temperatures.

Within a year the dragonfruit should have numerous shoots coming from the original cutting. These can be heavy and they often go astray so using a trellis or a stake is a good idea to keep the plant upright. In as early as two years you can expect beautiful flowers and delicious dragonfruits.

Dwarf Barbados Cherry

2010-06-18T16:12:00.012-07:00

The Dwarf Barbados Cherry (Malphigia punicifolia) is a popular choice for use as a bonsai. This is mainly due to the plant's extremely small size. Aside from use as a Bonsai, the Barbados Cherry is great as an indoor/outdoor container plant. With the ability to withstand 25F temperatures, this plant is quite versatile and will do well in a greenhouse, indoors and outdoors (with mild winters). The light requirements of the Dwarf Cherry are moderate, allowing it to grow in partial shade or even indoors. It's demand for water is high and it shouldn't be allowed to dry out for extended periods of time. I recommend using a well draining soil and watering it often, especially when in bloom or fruiting.

The plant:
The Barbados Cherry (Malpighia emarginata) is a "grown up" version of the Dwarf Barbados Cherry. The plants look very similar in their leaf structures, flowers and fruits, the only difference is that the Barbados Cherry can reach heights of over 20ft while it's miniature counterpart remains at a mere 2-4 feet tall at maximum. The other difference is in popularity, the Barbados Cherry is commonly referred to as an Acerola and has remained very popular in its native tropics. On the other hand, the Dwarf Barbados Cherry is not as popular and remains in the shadows to most. However, the plant has gained significant support in bonsai communities as an attractive fruit bearing specimen.

The fruit:
Cherries from the M. punicifolia are very small (just over 1cm long) and red when ripening. The taste is rumored to be sweet in some varieties, although I find the taste to be rather bland. If I could compare the taste to anything it would probably be a mild tomato. You will find a miniature seed inside of each cherry, but don't get too excited about sprouting it, germination is very difficult with this plant. There are blooming cycles that are activated by numerous factors such as day length, temperature, and water. I am unaware of any way to positively stimulate the plant to produce more cycles, but typically you can expect about 3-6 cycles a year in a mature plant. Disappointingly most flowers never turn into fruits, either due to difficulty in pollination or the plant's burden to produce a large quantity of fruit. You will notice that many of these plants have ten or more flower clusters on one branch so there is at least a lot of chances for fruits. When pollination occurs the flower will lose all of its petals and then either shrivel up or develop a green fruit that will eventually mature and ripen red.

Propagation of the Dwarf Barbados Cherry:
There are many options available for the curious grower to get a start on growing their own M. punicifolia but the most common is propagation by cutting. Growing by seed may yield high genetic variability (if you can get the seeds to germinate), this may produce undesirable offspring. Propagation by cutting will as always, produce an exact clone of the parent. This can be done by selecting a branch that has some hardwood as well as a few leaves (the hardwood is a darker color and of older age than the softwood which is newer and usually greenish). Fungicide and root hormone should be applied to the end which was cut for the highest chance of success. There are a variety of methods which may be used to stimulate root growth of the cutting, these would be placing it in a plant propagator (typically an aeroponic system) or most simply by placing the cutting about an inch or two in a well draining soil. It may take 1-2 months before you can see roots grow but don't get too hopeful as most cuttings won't survive so do more than one.

As a Bonsai:
The Dwarf Barbados Cherry does excellent in almost any kind of bonsai container. I have mine planted in a shallow rectangular container made of clay, but I have seen them do well in narrow but deep containers as well. This plant is perfect for bonsai culture as it grows new leaves and shoots readily yet maintains solid mature looking stems. The most attractive aspect of this plant as a bonsai is its numerous and persistent flowers in addition to its fruit.
Common pests and diseases for the Dwarf Barbados Cherry:
Personally I have found aphids to be the most devastating, they primarily attack the young flower buds and leaves. I take care of them by spraying a safe insecticidal soap twice a week until they are gone. I have heard that nematodes and pathogens are other common problems.

Bitter melon

2010-06-11T10:39:00.022-07:00

Momordica charantia (aka bitter melon or bitter gourd) is a popular vegetable in many Asian countries and has an adamant place in Asian cuisine. Bitter melon's popularity doesn't stop at being a staple food crop, it's also used as a medicinal treatment for a wide array of illnesses, and it often consumed as a tea. It's a member of the Cucurbitaceae family along with cucumbers, and the resemblance is clear. The problem most people have with bitter melons is their bitterness, it is definitely an acquired taste. For culinary chefs the bitterness can be used as a compliment in their dishes, making the bitter melon very useful in cooking.

Growing this plant out of it's desired sub-tropical/tropical climate is very easy, but only as an annual. When growing bitter melon think of it as if you were growing a cucumber, start after the last frost of winter and expect them to grow until it gets cold again in fall. It prefers high humidity but they can still be grown in low humidity. You will find that this plant is a fast grower, but is even faster at blooming. I have noticed flowers on bittermelon vines that are only 6 inches long! As far as aesthetics go, it's not a terribly pretty plant and it has a very bitter smell. Just touching the leaves of this plant will make your hands smell with a spicy bitterness.
The varieties of bitter melons:
There are many different types of bitter melons with different textures, tastes, and sizes. The Indian bitter melon (below) is generally smaller and very bumpy. Chinese bitter melons (Top of page) are long and smooth and are a lighter shade of green. There are bitter melon hybrids that are white and some that are extremely long, some even have different leaf structures.

Seeding Bitter melon:
Collect hard seeds from the bitter melon, the soft white seeds aren't viable. You will notice red flesh surrounding each seed, if the flesh is white that means the seed probably isn't viable. Take the seed out of the pocket of flesh before planting. Expect about 15-30 seeds per bittermelon depending on their size and variety. You can either let them dry out or plant them immediately. Plant them about ¼ inch in a well draining soil and water daily. Germination period is around 7-14 days and time until harvest can be sooner than 60 days!

Growing conditions for Bitter melon:
I have noticed that these vines are mildly drought tolerant and do well even in excessively hot temperatures. Frost is deadly to these plants thus making it an annual, although in tropical locations it can survive as a perennial. Bitter melon vines can tolerate slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils making them fairly versatile. A trellis should be provided if you want to keep this plant from spreading and taking over other plants. This way the bitter melon vine can attach its tendrils to the trellis as opposed to neighboring plants. Give this plant a lot of space, it grows fast and is ready to conquer a greenhouse or garden.

Pollination and harvest of bitter melons:
The bitter melon plant has both female and male flowers which means that a pollinator must carry the pollen from the male flower to the female to complete fertilization. The most common pollinators are bees and other flying insects, although if you don't have any natural pollinators or are growing in a greenhouse it is easiest to hand pollinate them. You can do this by using a small paintbrush and collecting pollen from a male flower and applying it to the female flowers. Typically the vines have far more male flowers than female flowers which means that most flowers will not turn into fruits. You can tell the difference between male and female flowers by the flower stem. That of the male will be long and thin while the female's flower stem will have a small unfertilized bitter melon attached to it. A pollinated female flower can be seen in the picture below.

How to cook bitter melon:
There are a wide variety of techniques when cooking bitter melon but most common are using them in stirfries and soups. Many people like to fry or pickle the bitter melons to add flavor and reduce bitterness. If used in a stir fry or soup you should cut the bitter melon in slices or in sections, but make sure no mature seeds are included. If you are using immature bitter melons you will notice that the seeds are small and soft making them edible. Bitter melons are commonly deep fried and often breaded too, making a nice snack food. The bitter melon itself is crispy and very watery with a spongy flesh on the inside with the seeds.

Bitter melon products are widely available and quite popular in many countries. You can find bitter melon as a flavoring in candies, bitter melon tea which claims to carry medicinal benefits, as well as bitter melon soda!

This is a box of Gohyah tea that is made with the bittermelon/bittergourd. Gohyah tea is dried slices or pieces of the bitter melon and it should be brewed just like any other herbal tea. The Vietnamese name for Gohyah tea is "Tra Kho Qua" while the Chinese name is "KuDing".

Growing Zones

2010-05-15T17:42:00.001-07:00

Knowing your growing zone helps you figure out what you can and can't grow in your climate. Traditional North American growing zones, or hardiness zones, are labeled 1-11 and include an (a) and (b) zone for each number. On the scale, 1 represents the coldest of zones while 11 represents the warmest. Each zone number corresponds to the average annual minimum temperatures of that zone, starting at zone 1 (-50F) and going up by 10F increments all the way to zone 11 (40F). The letters (a and b) represent 5F increments. For example zone 8a has a average annual minimum temperature of 10F-15F while zone 8b is 15F-20F. Typically for North America, the further north you go the lower the growing zone (colder) and the closer to the equator that you get, the higher the growing zone(warmer). There are a lot of factors that influence the minimum winter temperatures but most important are the distance to the equator, altitude, and distance from coastal regions.

This is the National Arboretum's USDA plant hardiness map of North America. For those in the United States hardiness zones can be found at usna.usda.gov. Those living in other countries should check their government websites or their national botanical garden's website to find local hardiness zones. Many countries create their scale differently than the USDA scale. Some simply add more zones to the traditional USDA scale that go up to 13+ while others create a whole new scale. An example of this is Australia's hardiness zone map that can be found at anbg.gov.au.

A good understanding of growing zones is crucial for growing any plants outdoors, and especially tropical plants. If you want your plants to survive winter it is important to know their hardiness and your growing zone. Most commercially grown plants come with the hardiness printed on the label so you can know if the plant will survive winter or not before you buy it. Its possible to grow plants that wouldn't normally survive your zone by either covering them during winter months, or putting them in a greenhouse. If you know of any hard freezes it would be wise to cover any cold intolerant plants with some sheets during the night. This keeps the plant a little bit warmer. Citrus trees are popular here in Arizona and they grow quite well but in many places people must still cover them for freezes to keep them from dying.

Some perennials and trees need chilly winters to survive and continue to grow the next year. The chill period first occurs during Fall, in which the deciduous trees lose their leaves. During winter months with chilling temperatures (~40F and below) plants such as bulbs and some fruit trees will become dormant. These "Stone fruit" trees (Almonds, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Apricots, and Cherries), some "Pome fruit" trees (Apples and Pears), and many berries (Blueberries, Blackberries, Raspberries) need a specific amount of chill time, depending on the variety and cultivar. This will range anywhere from a few hundred hours to two thousand hours. Areas like Hawaii and Florida in addition to tropical locations worldwide aren't able to grow such trees because they can't provide adequate chill time (if any at all).

Minimum temperatures have little variance in most tropical climates. Instead of having warm and cold seasons they typically have a dry and wet season. The dry season is marked by time period of lower than average precipitation/humidity; The wet season is usually marked by monsoon rains and is often referred to as a rainy season. Due to annual weather cycles the wet and dry seasons are predictable, but occasionally tropical locations will also have a cool season. A cool season is simply a season with slightly lower temperatures.

How to: Grow Avocado from seed

2010-04-23T22:11:00.001-07:00

The avocado (Persea americana) is one of the more popularly cultivated tropical plants. A common name for this fruit is the Alligator Pear, named in part to its rough skin and pear shape. Its native to the Americas and has a wide variety of culinary uses especially in dips and sandwiches. The trees do best outside (in tropical/sub-tropical climates) where they will grow tall and fruit abundantly. The best areas for the cultivation of avocados are zones 9-11+. If you can protect your avocado from frost then growing in a lower zone may be possible. The best places to grow Avocado in the United States are California, Florida, and the lower states. If you are buying a live avocado tree, be sure to check it's hardiness; be certain that you can provide a warm enough environment for it. For those of you living in colder climates you can still grow avocados inside your house or in a greenhouse, although in these situations it will be unlikely that you get any fruit. When young the plant looks like a typical house plant, similar to a money tree (Pachira aquatica).

Next time you are making guacamole think twice about throwing away the pits. Have some fun with them, try growing them in water. This method is easy, fun, and rewarding, if you have a little patience. You will need three toothpicks, a small cup, and an avocado pit. First place your seed(s) in a class of hot water (120-130F) to kill any possible avocado root rot pathogens. Place your avocado pit pointy side up and gently push in the toothpicks equidistant from each other just less than an inch from the tip. Now make sure you can suspend your pit on the rim of the cup. Fill the cup with water and put it just about anywhere that won't get too cold. Change the water often (1-2 times a week) to keep the necessary oxygen levels. Time for germination is anywhere from 3-6 weeks (or more) so this is where a good patience is needed. I have noticed that the warmer it is the faster they germinate so try to maintain a temperature range of 60-85F. I have had a 100% germination rate with my avocado seeds so they seem to be one of the more viable kinds of seeds out there. To improve chances of germination further be sure to plant soon after eating the fruit.

If you are serious about growing an avocado tree, plant your sprouted pit in a moist and well draining soil. You can skip the toothpick method and just plant the seed directly in soil which works great too, just isn't as fun. They do the best in somewhat sandy soils but most generic potting soils work well too. Make sure the soil and container have adequate drainage, poor drainage is lethal for avocados. The soil's Ph should be around 6 but don't worry too much about the Ph. Growing store bought avocado seeds doesn't always produce a true to type plant. This means that if you eat and plant a Hass avocado seed the result could be a tree that produces no flowers/fruit or bears fruits with a poor flavor. If you are worried about this being the case, don't hesitate from growing those avocado pits anyways, you can still use them as rootstocks. This means that you cut off the entire plant at the stem/trunk and graft on a branch from a productive avocado. Being so, the grafted growth will contain the exact same DNA as the parent of the graft resulting in a clone of the parent tree.

Each avocado variety has it's pros and cons so do some research. Some can take the cold a little better while some produce bigger fruit or different colored fruits. Some of the most popular varieties of commercially grown avocados are Hass, Reed, and Bacon. For serious avocado growers, you can mix and match rootstocks and grafts. For instance some people pick out a variety of avocado that does great in their soil conditions or is especially disease resistant for the rootstock and then find a heavy producing plant to graft onto the rootstock. This results in a specialized avocado that suits the growers' soil conditions and climate while producing the kinds of fruits that they love.

These two avocados were grown using the toothpick method. Every day I would check on them to see if anything new happened, but every day they were still just avocado pits in water. Just as I was about to throw them away I noticed that a thick taproot was coming out of both seeds. Growth was still slow though, I blame the cold winter months. I started them just about 6 months ago and they are already over a foot tall! All of the avocado seeds I have planted since have come along a lot faster, or so it seems. These avocados are taller than the ones I grew outside, this is because they received less light next to a window compared to outside in direct sun, and naturally grew up towards the sun. For these taller avocados (and all young trees for that matter) you should gently shake or tap the stem. This acts as an artificial wind. With this movement the plant releases chemicals that signal for the plant to reinforce its stem.

Further tips for growing Avocado trees:

Be sure that the soil is very well draining, soggy soils are deadly.
Keep on the lookout for avocado diseases, these can strike at a moment's notice.
Protect from severe heat by planting in partial shade or under a larger tree.
Protect from cold temperatures (Keep in mind an Avocado's hardiness varies by variety).
It may take up to 10 years or more before an avocado will bear fruit, so be patient.
Fertilize Younger plants (Over one year old) with a high phosphorous fertilizer, while mature fruiting/flowering avocados should be given a high nitrogen fertilizer.
Use fertilizer sparingly, avocados are sensitive to over fertilization.

Stevia rebaudiana

2010-04-10T19:01:00.003-07:00

Stevia rebaudiana is a member of the Stevia genus consisting of American herbs and shrubs. This specific herb, commonly called Sweetleaf, is indigenous to Paraguay and has an amazing secret, it tastes extremely sweet. What could make this plant any more magical? Its sweet taste isn't created by conventional sugars, instead by a chemical named Stevioside found within the plant. The result is a sugar-free natural sweetener.

Stevia is a popular sweetener and is used in a variety of methods. Commercially the sweet compounds are extracted and sold in liquids or solids for use in food. Stevia leaves can be dried and brewed into a sweet tea or added to other teas to make them sweeter. People often sweeten their morning coffee with a powdered or liquid extract of Stevia. These extracts can be purchased at a local grocery store and are often prefered over the leaves because the extracts dissolve completly as opposed to the leaves which will be floating around in your drink.

Growing Stevia from seed is very difficult, this is due to Stevia's low germination rate. Not only are the seeds hard to get growing, they are hard to find. If you are lucky enough to buy seeds make sure they are fresh and get at least a few hundred or more. This may seem like a lot but the seeds are very small and with such a low germination rate you will need quantity and a bit of luck. A much easier way to get a hold of some Stevia plants is at your local nursery. While most nurseries carry Stevia make sure you taste it before you buy it. Due to an endless combination of reasons (Soil, Ph, Temperatures, Genetics, ect.) Stevia can be very bitter so pick out the one that tastes the best to ensure you are getting a good quality plant.

Planting Stevia:
This plant does good in pots or planted in the ground, but keep mind of temperatures. If you plant Stevia in a pot you can leave it outside in a garden or backyard and bring it in during the winter. It is known to die back during the winter (if it is outside) but it is likely that it will resurrect during the spring so long as it didn't get too cold. I wouldn't subject this plant to anything under 32F so it is probably best suited for outdoor cultivation at climate zones 9-11.

How to care for Stevia:
Be alert and check your Stevia frequently for flower buds. Make sure to pinch off all of these flower buds to increase the longevity of your plant as well as enhance the flavor of the leaves. When a Stevia plant goes to flower the leaves become more bitter and are far less enjoyable. Don't be afraid to take a daily snack on your plant either. By trimming up the plant it will be forced to focus on further leaf production as opposed to flowers, plus the new leaves taste the best. Be sure not to water too much, if you notice that the soil is soggy don't water it more. Water logging can easily kill a Stevia plant, especially when indoors where moisture is retained better. Also be sure your Stevia has sufficient light, part shade or full sun, if you plant inside make sure it is near a south facing window to get the maximum amount of light.

Government regulation of Stevia:
Due to Government concern about Stevia's safety it is regulated and even banned in some places, most notably the European Union. Most of the skepticism surrounding this plant is due to its relatively recent discovery and limited research on its safety for consumption. No real evidence suggesting harmful effects on humans has been documented and the sweet compounds in Stevia are "Generally recognized as safe" for consumption by the USDA.

Update: Stevia is no longer banned by the European Union.

Passiflora Edulis

2010-04-02T20:36:00.001-07:00

Passionflowers are organized under the Passiflora genus with hundreds of different species. While Passiflora's can be found around the world, the most common for eating is the Passiflora Edulis species that is native to South America. This species is not frost tolerant which means that the main areas of cultivation are tropical or sub-tropical climates. I have heard of this species doing very well in Hawaii, Florida, and parts of California. Where can you get Passionflower vines? You can either grow them yourself by seed, propagate from a parent plant, or buy a live plant.

This Passionflower (Passiflora Edulis) is a great example of the beauty behind these wonderful plants. The passionflower is an exquisite and complex flower consisting of 10 petals, many radial filaments, a centric ovary, 3 stigmas and 5 anthers. This alien flower seems to have a mathematical aspect to its design, a very bizarre specimen and one of my favorite flowers.

How to eat a Passionfruit:
The most important thing about eating Passionfruits is knowing the exact species from which the fruit comes. Not all Passionfruits are edible so be careful about eating fruits found in the wild. If you find the fruits in the grocery store, they are safe to eat, but be weary of buying Passiflora plants on the internet or at nurseries. If the information given to you doesn't specify the edibility of that species you should refer to the internet. In addition unripe fruits of certain edible species should not be consumed by humans. The fruits of an Edulis are typically purple fleshed with yellow pulp, eat the pulp and discard the skin. Don't be affraid of the seeds, they are edible too; I think of them as larger versions of kiwi seeds. There is a wide variety of culinary uses for Passionfruit but its mostly used in desserts such as sorbet. I find the taste to be sweet and tangy but the flavor will vary from each species and variety.

Growing Passionflower by seed:
This option is less favorable for anyone new to Passionflowers; This is because Passiflora seeds have long and irregular germination periods. I would estimate germination to occur anywhere from 1 month to 1 year after sowing. There are countless factors effecting the germination period but most prevalent seems to be the freshness of the seeds. For this reason sow your passionflower seeds immediately. The advantage to growing Passionflowers by seed is their extraordinary potential for hybridization. Hybridizing two different varieties of Passionflower can lead to some truly spectacular flowers.

Tips to growing Passionflower:
Make sure you have a soil that is well draining and rich in Potassium. If the conditions are favorable Passionflower vines will take over! If in a greenhouse be sure to tame the growth of this exploratory plant by pruning the long stems. A trellis or support stake are needed to control the growth of this plant and to provide orderly growth.

Pests and Problems Cultivating:
I would consider caterpillars and snails as the biggest pests of Passionflowers but I have yet to have problems with either. However I have had problems with yellowing leaves and this is most likely due to an Iron or Sulfur deficiency, and is an easy fix with appropriate application of these nutrients. Overwintering is one of the biggest obsticals for many Passionflower growers but there are many ways to combat this issue. One of the easiest is to put it in a greenhouse. For those who wish to grow this plant outside be sure to choose a cold hardy species that suits your climate zone. There are some species of Passionflower that can survive below freezing temperatures although such temperatures are fatal for most commercially grown edible plants.

This is a Crimson Passionflower (Passiflora Vitifolia). It's supposedly an edible species native to Central and South America. It provides a good contrast to the Edulis species as it's petals are a vibrant red and elongated with a wider leaf structure. As well, this species' radial filaments are much shorter than those of the Edulis. There are huge differences between each species of Passionflower and there are some truly crazy ones out there. In addition Hybridization creates an endless variety of flowers.

How to: assemble a Greenhouse Kit

2010-03-19T20:54:00.002-07:00

For those of you with a green thumb wanting to grow even during the winter, a greenhouse is the prefect solution. As for me, I am more interested in growing exotic tropicals all year round. What ever the case may be, greenhouses can be a lot of fun. So you might ask what more is there to a greenhouse than parts and a manual? Well for one, you are not restricted to buying the common "snap together" greenhouses. Many people opt to build their own from scratch, buy more complicated blueprints/kits, or even contract builders to do the work for them. There are many advantages to buying one of these cheaper snap together greenhouses, however there are also many limitations.

Advantages to greenhouse kits:

Often inexpensive ($400 - $4000+)
Instruction manual included, usually clear and easy to understand
Fast to build and relatively long lasting
Most have very lengthy warranties (sometimes lifetime for the frame)
Easy to build, with a little help construction can take as little as one day

Disadvantages to greenhouse kits:

Cheap parts and often made in China
Parts may not fit together perfectly
Somewhat small growing areas (an 8X12 ft model, for example only has 96 Square feet to grow with)
Difficult to modify (such as adding vents, fans, electricity, ect.)

*There are some greenhouse kits that are by no means cheap, some are even fitted with electricity, lighting, heaters, coolers, thermostats, the works.

The greenhouse we built was an 8 ft. by 12 ft. "EZgrow/Kensington" brand greenhouse. The kit arrived in three very large boxes with a total weight of over 250 pounds. While the finished product seems pretty sturdy it's surely not hurricane proof. This greenhouse has an aluminum frame with plastic joints which highly disappoints me as the plastic will be the first thing to break and being at the joints it will cause a lot of problems; As well, there were many inconsistencies in the building materials but nothing that we couldn't work around. The construction was at times frustrating but it only took about 12 hours of work (with two people). To allow for easier watering we installed a water line in the greenhouse with a water spigot and hose. We put down some sand on the interior floor before laying brick pavers. The brick pavers will hopefully prevent anything from coming up from the ground such as weeds and bugs and provide a clean work area. They should also absorb a little heat cooling things off a bit.

How do you know if a greenhouse is a good buy? For starters, if you are buying a greenhouse kit, I would only recommend buying one with double walled polycarbonate panels or glass. The panels are rigid, durable, efficient and a lot cheaper than glass and can also insulate the greenhouse protecting it from cold temperatures. I have seen cheap knock off greenhouses for a few hundred dollars that are made with single walled plastic panels, these are no more than toys and you should expect them to be extremely low quality. Go for a greenhouse made with a metal frame, a plastic frame is very short lived. As far as extra features make sure you buy a greenhouse with vents and preferably automatic vents. These automatic vents are levers with a bee's wax cylinder and a piston. When the air in the greenhouse gets too hot the bee's wax will melt, force the piston out, and open the vent. Fans are also a good idea to circulate the air and cool things off a bit.

So how does one go about assembling a greenhouse kit? By reading the manual of course. First thing is first, create a method to sort your parts. I organized parts by what step they would be used in according to the manual. Also, I would not recommend building on hard surfaces such as concrete, asphalt, rocks, or dirt. Such surfaces can get excessively hot and actually melt the panels, in addition they can create scratches and dents in your frame. I built mine on grass, however my lawn is rather uneven and this made things a little more difficult. The sides can be constructed by a single person but as you build the roof you will definitely need at least two people and a step stool.

Maintaining temperatures and humidity in a greenhouse:
Depending on where you live and what you are growing both temperature and humidity are crucial factors to growing healthy plants. If either temperature or humidity are too high or too low then the plants can be threatened. In my case I grow a lot of tropical plants which need high humidity (a minimum of 60%) and warm temperatures (65 F - 95 F). In Arizona we have a lot heat but no humidity. For the desert greenhouse gardener this is good and bad. Bad because its easy to overheat things in a greenhouse even with vents and fans especially when the outside temperature is +105F. Good because you have to worry less about excessively cold winter temperatures and high electricity bills. It is typically warmer inside a greenhouse than outside of one which causes problems of overheating in the summer. This can be combated by using a combination of shade mesh, thermal mass, and air circulation. A shade cloth/mesh will probably work the best as it can lower the inside temperature of a greenhouse from 140F to 100F in just minutes. Different gauges of mesh are available to allow for less light or more light thus controlling the inside temperatures. For those with high heat and low humidity a swamp cooler in addition to the shade mesh is ideal. Winter for most greenhouse gardeners is the most difficult time of the year, and usually heating elements such as space heaters or propane heaters are required to keep the plants from freezing. An economical way to keep the temperature up in the winter is to install bubble wrap on the interior of the greenhouse. This provides temporary insulation and reduces you heating requirements. Luckily humidity is one of the easier things to control in a greenhouse. To achieve more humidity you can install a fish pond or misters. Also the more plants you have the more humidity will be in the greenhouse as plants perspire water into the air. To release humidity simply open some vents or open the greenhouse doors. So how do you find out how much humidity is in your greenhouse? You will need a Hygrometer, these are typically inexpensive and there are some digital hygrometer/thermometer devices that can be placed on the wall inside a greenhouse. But of all the greenhouse gadgets a thermometer is the most important. Be sure to check it constantly during the first couple weeks of having a new greenhouse. Find out what your nightly lows and daily highs are to make sure that you can keep all of your plants happy before you introduce them into their new home.

Introduction to thermal mass:
Water's high specific heat allows it to absorb heat energy very effectively. By placing large 35-55 Gallon drums filled with water inside your greenhouse you will be reducing the maximum temperatures and increasing the minimum temperatures. The concept is simple, during the day the water absorbs heat from the greenhouse reducing the temperature and at night when the temperatures drop the energy stored in the water is released to the greenhouse thus slightly increasing nightly temperatures. To make the process more effective all drums should be painted black to absorb the maximum amount of heat.

Light conditions inside of a greenhouse:
Plants need light to conduct photosynthesis and create crucial sugars for survival and growth; however all plants require different amounts of light. A sure fire sign of insufficient light is elongation of stems. You will notice this most on fast growing plants such as beans. If you want to try it yourself, plant some beans in a pot inside your house. Because there are low light levels inside of houses you will see the stem grow towards any windows looking for more light. Generally this isn't much of an issue as most plants are well adapted in partial shade to full sun. Some plants however, especially sensitive ones like orchids, are very specific about lighting requirements. If you think your plants might be getting too much or too little light, meters are available to measure the foot-candles (foot-candles are a measurement of light intensity). Adjust your shade accordingly or look into buying interior grow lights if more light is needed.

Bugs, Diseases and Fungus:
Always be weary of what you are putting into your greenhouse. The introduction of a plant that is infected with aphids, for instance, would jeopardize all other plants. In closed environments such as a greenhouse bugs and diseases can spread rapidly. If you have plants that are infected with a fungus or bugs try using an organic insecticidal/fungicidal soap prior to bringing the plants into the greenhouse. Also be careful of what organic materials you bring in; Compost that isn't completely broken down may still contain foreign seeds or bugs that will readily conquer your greenhouse. Check compost and mulch for small bugs such as gnats before bringing it inside.

What to grow and why:
For many people greenhouses are for the starting of crops or ornamental plants during the winter for introduction to the garden/yard in the spring. This allows for a head start to gorgeous landscapes and early harvests. For others greenhouses serve as permanent utilities for food production; Most commonly people will grow tomatoes year round with stunning success. Don't feel limited to the average plants however, try something new and exotic to add some variety to your growing space. Bananas are probably one of the better suited plants, although there are hundreds of edible tropical plants that you can grow in your greenhouse, so be adventurous.

Enjoying a greenhouse to the fullest:
Just because you grow plants that may be used for food or ornamental purposes , don't automatically associate your greenhouse with "work". Greenhouses are fun places to relax, read a book, and escape from the world. Most importantly, enjoy the rewards your greenhouse will offer, savor the fruits and vegetables all year long.

Orchid show

2010-03-05T20:27:00.006-07:00

Last week I went to an annual orchid show and sale put on by the Tucson Orchid Society. It was hosted at one of the nurseries in town, and members offered orchids at outstanding prices. From the exterior it looked quite unimpressive, just an enclosed white tent. As I walked in, I was immersed in an exotic display of truly unbelievable orchids. Each and every plant was exquisite and deserved the recognition they received, ribbons given out by the judges. I'm not sure what the basis for the judging was, but I assume that it was done based on species with the best of each species receiving a first place ribbon.

One of the best examples of the fascinating out-of-the- ordinary orchids is the Dendrobium Pierardii. With few (if any leaves) it has it's stems hang down like vines. In this case the plant is anchored on a rock and the stems dangle at least five feet! The flowers are pink and white and they come out directly from the stems. This was one of the most unusual orchids I have seen and probably one of my favorites at the show.

There was a table set up displaying a large variety of orchids decorated with mosses and ferns, it really made you feel like you were in a jungle. I found some Tolumnias hidden in the midst of all these big orchids. Tolumnias are generally very small, and these specimens were just that, maybe two inches wide with flowers that were just ¼th of an inch in diameter.
Flowers of all sizes, colors and shapes were lurking around every corner with many orchid society members walking around socializing with the guests. A display and diagrams explaining the uses of different orchid growing mediums was useful for newbies like me. They had a lot of informational guides to growing and caring for orchids in addition to a lot of friendly people willing to describe (in length) everything from orchid care to orchid propagation. If you have never been to an orchid show, keep your eyes out and try to go to any that are in your area.

Coffea arabica

2010-02-18T18:49:00.009-07:00

Most people live their lives drinking coffee every morning and few stop to think about where their precious beans come from. Most coffee beans come from Coffea arabica, while few come from other species such as Coffea canephora (robusta). The name of Coffea arabica gives a straightforward hint as to it's origins, the Arabian peninsula, of course. The plant itself looks like a tall shrub but many consider it a tree as it can grow over 30ft tall. Similar to the tea plant, commercial coffee growers often prune down to as low as 6 feet for easier cultivation. Coffea plants can't survive sub freezing temperatures, so they are best cultivated in tropical or subtropical regions. Those who wish to grow coffee in a greenhouse are in luck, coffee plants in greenhouses thrive, and can even put out beans! What I find interesting about this plant is the fact that as seedlings they grow fast, sturdy, and close together. This allows for braiding of the stems when they are young. When they mature the trunks of five or six plants become intertwined making a very cool braided effect.

Once a coffee plant is a few years old it will begin to flower profusely with many small white flowers coating the branches. Next comes the formation of coffee beans which come from small red berries on the plant which are collected, fermented, dried, and then roasted to create the drink that so many people depend on.

These are my coffea arabica seedlings; they're inside my house near a south facing window so they can get some sun, and they are growing quite a bit.

These are my seedlings that I have tied together in attempts at creating braided coffee plants. Be careful if you choose to do this with your plants, think ahead and plant the beans very close together so you don't have to do any transplanting.

A lone Coffea berry on a Coffee tree. This picture was taken in the Tucson Botanical Garden's greenhouse.

These are some French Roasted coffee beans from the arabica species. Most of coffee's flavor lays in the roast, I'll leave the science of roasting to the professionals.

How to: Grow Kiwi from seed

2010-02-12T19:12:00.000-07:00

Actinidia deliciosa is commonly known as the kiwi vine. These vines can grow well over 20 feet and develop thick woody stalks making it a sturdy perennial. Depending on the variety of fuzzy kiwi, it may be hardy down to zone 7. For those living in colder climates, Actinidia arguta, or hardy kiwi is available. While hardy kiwi's are smaller and less impressive, they can survive temperatures in the negative fahrenheits!

Seeing as how I don't have access to live kiwi plants, I opted to grow them from seed. It is possible to propagate this plant by cuttings, if you are lucky enough to find some. I used a store bought kiwi just as an experiment, and sure enough most of the seeds have sprouted. Time for germination can be over one month so be patient. You should keep the seeds in a warm (70F) area, either planted in soil or in a moist plastic bag. I was able to achieve germination of my kiwi seeds from planting them in soil, in a bag, and even in a cup of water. So when will your kiwi's produce fruit? My guess is a few years. It's a relatively slow growing vine but definitely an interesting addition to any home garden or greenhouse.

Pollination of kiwi flowers is difficult and requires both a female and male plant. The female plant will bear fruit, while it is essential for the male plant to provide pollen. If you want to grow your own kiwi's then you absolutely must have at least one male and one female. However if you want to maximize your kiwi output it would be wise to only have one or two male plants in addition to ten or more females. The extra pollen isn't really necessary and as you can't get fruit from the male plants there is no use in growing more than a few.

If you choose to grow your kiwi seeds in a soil medium then I would recommend using an all-purpose soil mix. Add in some vermiculite and perlite to keep the seeds happy, constantly moist yet not waterlogged.
This is one of my kiwi's about two weeks after germination. The fuzzy hairs are visible on the leaves in this picture; not only are the kiwi's fuzzy, the whole plant is!

How to: Grow horned melon

2010-02-05T16:43:00.012-07:00

Cucumis metuliferus is more commonly referred to as kiwano, horned cucumber, and horned melon. Its names suit its appearance; a melon-like fruit with large spikes all over. It's a vine native to Africa that bears spiny edible fruits. It is in the cucumber (Cucurbitaceae) family and doesn't look too far off from a cucumber. This is an annual plant that is great for growing in the garden, especially against a fence to let it climb. The plant can't survive cold temperatures so it is best grown as a summer crop. If planting outside, the seeds should be sown after the last frost or in spring. These don't make good house plants because being an annual, they demand a lot more sunlight than a window can provide. While the plant itself isn't very aesthetically pleasing, the fruits are. They usually have red, yellow, and green streaks.

Where can you buy horned melons? I would recommend high-end grocery stores, or specialty grocers that carry a wide variety of fruits. I am unaware of anywhere that sells seeds or plants so your best bet is to buy a fruit and plant the seeds.

Not many people like the taste of horned melons, but I would recommend that you at least try one. To eat a horned melon, you should cut it in half and scoop out the inside with a spoon. You will notice that the fruit has hundreds of jelly-like portions, inside of which you will find a seed. The seeds are edible, but if you want to try your hand at planting one, you must first remove it from the surrounding gelatin (not as easy as it sounds). If you dislike the taste, try sprinkling some sugar on it.
This picture is a good example of the horned melon's climbing potential. You should allow the plant to climb up a trellis or fence rather than spread out on the ground. This will protect your fruits, save space and make harvesting easier.

Camellia Sinensis (Tea)

2010-01-29T19:49:00.003-07:00

All teas (Black, Green, White, Oolong) come from the same plant (Camellia Sinensis). Camellia Sinensis grows into a tree in its wild habitat, however for easier cultivation the plants are typically pruned to bushes. Tea plants are relatively hardy and can handle light freezes fairly well making them good candidates for outside plants. However cultivating this outdoors may be a challenge in many areas due its need for very well draining and highly acidic soil.

Camellias are very common plants in nurseries. One of the more available Camellias is the Camellia Japonica, an absolutely beautiful shrub, very similar in appearance to the Sinensis. The main difference is the flowers. Japonicas have very extravagant flowers of varying colors, while the flowers of a Tea plant are smaller and white. Camellia Sinensis is an very rare find in North American nurseries but is readily available on the Internet. Growing a Camellia from seed is relatively difficult and can take many months for germination so I would recommend buying a live plant.

Taking care of a tea plant is easy and rewarding. As an owner you must make sure to keep the soil constantly moist, but be sure not to water too much too often. Although the soil should be well draining the moisture will be retained for days (if indoors). If you are having difficulty with moisture retention you should try adding some vermiculite to your soil mix. Equally important is a soil Ph between 4.5 and 6.5. Controlling acidity is easy, and a Ph meter can make it even easier. To acidify soil you should add soil sulfur or even pine needles to the top soil.

This is one of my young tea plants that is a variety called "Sochi Tea". It originates from a Russian tea plantation and is drastically different than my other tea varieties. It varies in its larger more rigid leaves. The texture of the leaves is also quite different, they are more leathery and soft compared to typical tea leaves which are somewhat waxy.

As my oldest tea plant this will soon produce a lot of tea when spring rolls around. It is over three years old and is a variety with a yellow variegation on some of the leaves.

Botanical Gardens

2010-01-22T21:40:00.009-07:00

I recently made a trip to the Tucson Botanical Gardens and was surprised by their collection of plants. The bulk of the exhibits were desert themes as one would expect, being in a desert and all. There were a lot of interesting cacti and trees but I was there for the butterfly exhibit, not cacti. The gardens import butterflies from around the world, and let them loose in a large tropical greenhouse. Admittedly I was more impressed with the tropical flora than the butterflies, but regardless it was an amazing experience.This is one of the more impressive pictures. The plants growing on this tree are considered Epiphytes, meaning they grow in the air (Air Plants). In the center is a large Orchid, while elsewhere on the tree small Bromeliads can be seen.

Here two butterflies are resting on a Coffee Tree. This was a very neat find in the greenhouse, I even spotted some fruits on it.

Avocado for the Holidays

2009-12-21T19:18:00.003-07:00

Instead of buying a Christmas tree, I convinced my parents to break from tradition and have an Avocado Christmas. For about $40 we purchased a Bacon Avocado tree from the local nursery and replaced it with a would-be Christmas tree. This potentially saved us a few bucks, and rewarded us with a wonderful avocado tree to plant outside in the spring. Sadly not every ornament could fit on the tree so we had to improvise, but overall I would say it was a great experiment and looks wonderful!

Happy Holidays

How to: Propagate Sugarcane

2009-12-12T23:00:00.008-07:00

Sugarcane is a tall perennial grass that is a very popular source for sugar and biofuel. It has a commercial growth period of between one to two years before harvest. For landscaping purposes sugarcane acts a lot like bamboo and is also cold sensitive, so those living in cold climates may have trouble cultivating sugarcane. Eating it raw provides a delicious sugary snack, all you have to do is shed the hard outer layer to expose the fiberous juicy core. Make sure not to eat the fibers and instead just drink the juice. Growing sugarcane is a very simple task once you get a hold of some raw cane. You will notice that the cane is in segments, at the end of each segment is a bud and some small dots.The bud is where the new sugarcane will grow, while the small dots are where the new roots will grow from. To encourage root growth I take the cane segments and wrap them in a wet paper towel before putting them in a zip-lock bag. I then put the bag somewhere warm and wait for 1-2 weeks.
The result will look a bit like this. You can see the roots grow very long and stringy which will provide a head start for the plant. You can see the bud in the center of the image.

The next step is to acquire some potting soil and add some sand to it. It should be in soil that will provide good drainage.

Now place rooted end of the cane deep in the soil, with the bud facing up. It should be oriented at about a 45 degree angle to allow the bud to grow straight up into a new cane.

Sugar cane is easy to start indoors and to transplant outside, make sure it stays warm and gets some sunlight. Fertilizer should not be necessary as it requires little nutrients.

2009-12-03T18:54:00.006-07:00

This is an introduction to what I have starting in my solar porch, in addition to many other plants and seeds that have yet to germinate, such as mangoes, avocados, and kiwi.

I bought this lovely young plant on the internet and it's called a Dwarf Orinoco banana. It will reach a height of 6-8ft and it should bear some fruit so it will be perfect for the greenhouse, seeing as how it fits our space restrictions.

I also purchased Myrciaria Cauliflora on the internet, more commonly known as a Brazilian grape. I have read that they can be used in the same fashion as grapes when making jams and wine. This is a very different plant than your average grape vine however and it grows more like a tree with profound branching and many leaves. The Jaboticaba (Brazilian Grape) is a very slow grower and it may take up to ten years before it bears fruit so I am in for a long wait.

This is one of my better looking sugar cane plants. It is a glossy black variety that has been propagated by cutting and it is doing quite well.

This happens to be a Pitaya plant that will eventually bear dragonfruit. There are many different species of Pitaya and I am not certain but I believe that this is a Red Pitaya (Hylocereus undatus).

Last but not least is one of my favorite plants, Vanilla Planifolia, which is of course a vanillia bean plant! It belongs to the orchid family and suposedly is one of the more difficult types of orchids to grow so I am crossing my fingers. This particular species is native to mexico and is supposed to vine excessively.